Se chung, also spelled se zhong is an inexpensive type of oolong tea produced in Anxi county of Fujian province in China. Anxi county is famous for being the origin of Tie Guan Yin Oolong (also known as Iron Goddess of Mercy), a delicious but very expensive variety of oolong tea. Se chung is not one particular variety of oolong, but rather, is a class of different oolongs, encompassing all oolongs produced in Anxi county, other than Tie Guan Yin. The name se chung means “colorful variety”, which is appropriate given the diverse nature of these oolongs.
Why are se chung teas such a good bargain?
The fame and recognition of Tie Guan Yin have resulted in the other oolongs produced in Anxi county being virtually ignored, not only by everyday tea drinkers but even by many tea connoisseurs. There is much less information on se zhong available on the web–google searches return roughly 40 times as many pages for Tie Guan Yin. As a result of these oolongs being ignored, their prices are very low. Se chung is often regarded as a “cheap” tea, with the implication that its low price equates to low quality.
However, humans have a well-studied tendency to attribute higher quality to goods purchased at a higher price. It is my personal belief, based on sampling a number of se chung and tie guan yin oolongs, that se chung teas are greatly undervalued and offer an extraordinarily good deal to price-conscious tea buyers.
Se chung oolongs have certain aspects of aroma and flavor that closely resemble Tie Guan Yin. Certain varieties may be attractive to tea drinkers seeking a cheaper alternative to Tie Guan Yin, whereas others are likely to appeal to oolong enthusiasts seeking to explore new teas with unique qualities of aroma and flavor.
Some Se Chung Varietals:
Se chung comes in different varieties, each of which is grown from a particular cultivar of the tea plant. Each of these cultivars has its own unique characteristics, resulting in a different aroma, flavor, and leaf shape.
- Huang Jin Gui, meaning Golden Osmanthus – Although scented teas, produced by scenting tea leaves with osmanthus flowers, are popular in China, this tea has been developed to have an aroma naturally resembling osmanthus flowers, even though it has not been scented with any flowers.
- Mao Xie, meaning Hairy Crab – This oolong tea has strongly serrated leaves covered in fine hairs, resulting in a finished leaf that sometimes resembles a miniature crab.
- Benshan – Named after a mountain in Anxi, this tea is often described as being very similar to Tie Guan Yin, to the point that some tea drinkers struggle to distinguish between the two teas.
- Qilan, meaning profound orchid – This type of oolong is often produced in a dark, more fully oxidized style, resulting in a sweet, dark cup of tea with a nutty aroma. It also is available in greener forms which are light and floral, with an aroma resembling orchid, the flower for which this tea is named.
Each of these types of se zhong oolong are available in different forms, with ranging levels of oxidation as well as different levels of roasting. The less oxidized and less roasted teas all have a lighter color and result in a richly aromatic cup of tea. The more heavily roasted teas and the more fully oxidized teas are darker. The more heavily oxidized teas resemble black tea somewhat more closely.
Generic se zhong:
Many tea companies sell generic se chung, not identified as any particular varietal. These teas are sometimes an unnamed variety, or blends of similar varieties. These teas can be extraordinarily inexpensive and offer great deals.